Welcome to The Climbing Dictionary !!!
This dictionary gives
definitions of American and English climbing terms and translations of those
terms in other languages.
The terms in this list are sorted alphabetically in English. The translations are as follows: (d) German, (f) French, (f-c) Québécois, (nl) Dutch, (i) Italian, (e) Spanish, (s) Swedish, (pl) Polish, (sl) Slovak.
Terms related the style of
ascent ('Flash', 'Redpoint', etc.) tend to be subject to different
interpretations.
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
Abseil, to
Descending by sliding down a rope. Americans
usually call this rappelling.
(d) Abseilen, (f) Descendre
en rappel, (nl) Afdalen/abseilen, (i) Doppia, fare una doppia, (e) Rapelar / descenso
en rappel, (s) fira, (pl) Zjazd na linie
Adze
The flat cutting end of the ice axe head.
(pl) Lpatka czekana
Aid climbing
Moving up a rock using fixed or placed
protecting as a means of progression (and not just for protection). Also known
in the US as sixth class climbing.
(d) Technisch klettern, (f) Escalade artificielle, (nl) Artificieel klimmen,
(i) Arrampicata artificiale, (e) Escalada artificial, (s) Teknisk klättring /
Artificiell klättring, (pl) Hakowka
Aider
Webbing ladder used for aid climbing. The word
was probably coined by someone who couldn't spell the french word étrier.
(d) Leiter, (f) Étrier, (nl) Ladder, (i) Staffa, (e) Estribo, (s) Stegar, (pl)
Laweczka podciagowa
Aid route
Route that can only be ascended using aid climbing
techniques
(d) Techno-route, (f) Voie d'artif, (i) Via in artificiale, (e) Ruta artificial
Alcove
A belay ledge that is surrounded by vertical
rock on all sides.
(pl) Nyza
Alpine
butterfly
AMS
Acute
mountain sickness. (Ask your medical doctor.)
(pl) Ostra choroba gorska
Anchor
Point
where the rope is fixed to the rock.
(d) Fixpunkt/Verankerung, (f) Point d'assurage, (f-c) Point d'ancrage, (nl)
Zekeringspunt, (i) Ancoraggio, (e) Anclaje / Punto de seguro, (s) Ankare /
Förankring, (pl) Punkt asekuracyjny
Arete
A
narrow (more or less - but often more less than more - horizontal) ridge.
(d) Grat, (f) arête, (nl)
graat, (i) cresta, (e) cresta / cuchilla, (pl) grzebien, (sl) hreben
Ascenders
Devices (e.g.
Jumars) to ascend a rope.
(d) Steigklemmen, (f) Jumars / Poignées ascensionnelles, (nl) Stijgklemmen, (i)
Maniglie/Ascensori, (e) Ascensores / Jumars, (s) Repklämmor, (pl) Zacisk
ATC
'Air
Traffic Controller', belaying device made by Black Diamond.
Avalanche
Lots of
snow or ice sliding down a mountain.
(d) Lawine, (f) Avalanche,
(nl) Lawine, (i) Valanga, (e) Avalancha, (s) Lavin, (pl) Lawina
Bail, to
To give
up on a rock climb or a summit attempt because of bad weather coming in.
Barn door, to
To lose
the foot and hand holds on one side of the body. Usually causes the climber to
swing like a barn door.
(f) partir en
drapeau
Base camp
The
lowest and largest fixed camp on a major ascent (or multiple ascents in the
same area).
(d) Basislager, (f) Camp de
base, (nl) Basiskamp, (i) Campo base, (e) Campamento base, (s) Basläger, (pl)
Obozowisko
Beer
Liquid
consumed in large quantities after climbing.
(d) Bier, (f) bière / mousse, (f-c) broue, (nl) bier / pintje, (i) birra, (e)
cerveza, (s) öl, (pl) piwo, (sl) piwo
Belay, to
To
secure a climber.
(d) Sichern, (f) Assurer , (nl) Zekeren, (i) Assicurare, (e) Asegurar / Dar
seguridad, (s) Säkra, (pl) Ubezpieczac
Belay Betty and Belay Bob
The
girl or boyfriend of an addictive rock climber.
(d) Sicherungsmaschine
Belay station
A safe stance consisting of an anchor, a rope, and a
belayer (aka "the belay")
(d) Standplatz, (f) Relais, (nl) Standplaats, (i) Sosta, (e) Punto de
encuentro, Reunión, (s) Standplats, (pl) Stanowisko
Belayer
The
person at the belay station securing the climber.
(d) Sicherungsmann/frau, (f) Assureur, (nl) Zekeraar, (i) Assicuratore/trice,
(e) Asegurador, (s) Säkringsman, (pl) Asekurant
"Belay on"
When
the belayer is ready to belay the climber up, he yells "Belay on".
(At least in the US, "belay on" would only confuse the hell out of a
British climber who prefers to hear "Climb when ready").
(d) "nachkommen", (f) "quand tu veux", (f-c)
"assuré", (nl) "nakomen", (i) "puoi venire", (e)
"sube" / "vienes", (s) "säkring klar", (pl)
"asekuracja gotowa" / “asekuruje”
"Below"
Used in
Britain to warn for impending impact with objects coming from above (e.g.
falling rock). "Rock" in the US.
(d) "Stein", (f) "Caillou" ("Pierre" is a common
French name and might cause confusion with those individuals that respond to
that name), (f-c) "Roche", (i) "Sasso", (e)
"Piedra", (s) "Sten"
Bent gate karibiner
Karibiner
with the gate bent to accept the rope more easily. Not uncontroversial.
(d) Bananenkarabiner, (f) Mousqueton à doigt incurvé, (i) Moschettone a barra
ricurva, (e) Mosquetón express, (s) Karbin med böjd grind, (pl) Karabinek z
lekko otwierajacym sie zamkiem
(d) "Berg Heil !"
A
German greeting at the summit.
Bergschrund
Or just 'schrund'. The top crevasse in a glacier or snowfield that is formed when the
glacier/snowfield tears away from the remaining patch of snow that is stable on
the mountainside.
(d) Bergschrund, (f) Rimaye
Beta
Insider
information about a climb. Running or auto beta is someone telling you how to
do the moves as you go (as in "can you please shut up with that running
beta, I want to find out myself").
(d) Informationen vor dem Start, (f) Description de la voie, (i) Informazioni
Beta flash
Leading
a climb with no falling or dogging, but with a piece of previous knowledge
hints on how to do those crux moves. Even seeing someone do the climb already
classifies as 'previous knowledge'.
(d) Flash mit Ansage, (f) Flash
Big wall
Rock
climb that is so long and sustained that a normal ascent lasts several days.
(d) Big Wall, (f) Grande paroi / grande falaise, (f-c) Grand mur, (e) Gran
Pared, (s) Storöägg / Bigwall
Biner
Short
for Karabiner
(d) Kara, (f) Mousquif / Moustif, (e) Mosquete / Mosquetón, (s) Karbin, (pl)
Karabinek
Birdbeak
A tiny
hooked piton manufactured by A5. It is similar to the old Chouinard
"Crack'n up", except that it only has a single side and that it is
intended to be hammered in if necessary.
(pl) Rodzaj skajhuka
Bivouac
Or
short, bivi. An uncomfortable sleeping place in the middle of a route.
(d) Biwak, (f) Bivouac, (nl) Bivak, (i) Bivacco, (e) Bivac, (s) Bivack, (pl)
Biwak
Black ice
Old ice
that was exposed to extremely cold temperatures, scree, and snowfall. Usually
found deep in shady couloirs, or on steep north faces. Very hard and dense ice
that is difficult to climb.
(f) Glace noire, (pl) Czarny
lod
Blast, to
To
begin a big wall, after the line fixing is done. "We're gonna blast on
Tuesday morning after we get the first three pitches fixed".
(f) Bleausard
Someone
who frequents 'Bleau (or Fontainebleau, the site of some excellent bouldering
near Paris).
Blue ice
Very
dense ice with a watery hue and few air bubbles.
Bolt
(d) Bohrhaken, (f) spit / scellement, (i) spit, (e) spits / bolt, (s) bult,
(pl) spit
Bolt, expansion
(d)
Bohrhaken, (f) Cheville à expansion, (nl) Boorhaak, (i) Caviglie da espansione,
(e) Piton de expansion, parabolt, (s) Borrbult
Bomber
Used to
indicate that something is exceptionally solid, e.g. an anchor, a hold. See
also bombproof.
(e) Firme, (s) Kanon
Bombproof
The
illusion that an anchor is infallible
(d) Bomben sicher, (f) béton (i) A prova di bomba, (e) A prueba de bomba, (s)
Bombsäker
A
(novice) climber with more braves than brains. Knows just enough about climbing
to get himself and others badly hurt.
Bong
An
almost extinct species of extra wide pitons. Now, large chocks are usually used
instead.
(f) "Bonne Grimpe !"
A
greeting to climbers when they start the climb.
(e) "¡Buena
suerte!"
Bootie
Gear
(nuts, cams, etc.) that was left behind on a climb by the previous party.
Boulder, to
Climbing
unroped on boulders or at the foot of climbs to a height where it is still safe
to jump off.
(d) Bouldern (f) Faire du
bloc, (nl) Boulderen, (i) Arrampicare su masso, (e) Boulder / Cascarear
Bounce, to
To
crater from an extreme height. Usually lethal.
(d) Todessturz, (pl) Obdijac sie skokami przy zjezdie
Bowline
Sailing
knot (not to be used for climbing, unless backed up with a second knot)
(d) Bulinknoten/Palstek, (f) Noeud de chaise, (nl) Paalsteek, (i) (Nodo)
bulino, (e) Bulín, (s) Pålstek, (pl) Wezel tatrzanski
Brain bucket
Aka
helmet. That all important hard shelled thing that covers our (second?) most
valuable asset.
Bucket
A large
hold (Aka "jug", esp. in UK)
(d) Henkel, (f) Bac/baquet, (nl) bak, (i) Fibbia / Vasca, (e) Asa / gasa, (s)
Brevlåda
Buildering
To
climb buildings
(d)
Fassadenklettern, (f-c) Escalade de ville, (nl) Geveltoerisme, (e) Escalada
urbana, (s) Fasadklättring, (pl) Wspinanie po murach
Bust a move, to
To
successfully execute a hard crux move.
Interesting
but rarely used climbing knot. Alpine butterfly
(f-c) Noeud papillon / les oreilles du Micky ??, (e) Nudo de mariposa, (pl)
Motylek
Buttress
The
part of the mountain or rock that stands in front of the main mountainface.
(d) Vorbau / Pfeiler, (f)
Pillier, (i) Pilastro, (e) Espolón, (s) Pelare, (pl) Pochyly filar
Cam
Generic
reference to the family of spring loaded camming devices (SLCD) such as
friends, camalots, aliens, TCUs, etc. Also referred to as springs
(d) Friends, (f) Friends, (e) Levas, (pl) Krzywka
Campus
A dyno executed
using the arms only. Comes from the campus board where the people who do this
move get the muscle to do it.
(d) Frei hängend
Campus board
A
wooden training board with finger ledges that is used for training dynos and
finger power.
(d) Hangelbrett, (f) Planche
d'entraînement, (e) Tabla de entrenamiento
Carabiner
The
alternative American spelling of the word Karabiner. Also spelled Caribiner.
Chalk
Magic
powder that makes the hands stick to even the smoothest rock.
(d) Chalk/Magnesia, (f)
Magnésie, (nl) Magnesiumpoeder, (i) Magnesia, (e) Magnesio, (s) Krita, (pl)
Magnezja
Chausey
Poor
rock conditions. Also spelled chossy.
Cheese grater, to
To
slide down a slab while scraping the knees, hands, and face.
Chest harness
Bra-like
looking harness (to be used with waist harness)
(d) Brustklettergurt, (f) Harnais, (nl) Borstgordel, (i) Cinghia pettorale, (e)
Arnés de pecho, (s) Bröstsele, (pl) upzraz piersiowa
Chickenhead
Sometimes
phallic shaped, protruding lumps that make excellent hand or footholds on
granite, etc.
(d) Zacke / Felsköpfel, (f-c) Banane, (e) Chile / cuerno, (pl) Duzy, owalny
wystep skalny
Chimed
Exhausted.
"This climb has got me chimed."
Chimney
A wide
crack that accommodates (most of) the body of the climber.
(d)Kamin, (f) Cheminée, (nl) Schoorsteen, (i) Camino, (e) Chimenea, (s) Kamin,
(pl) Komin
Chimney, to
A
climbing technique used to conquer chimneys. Usually requires the use of the
back and feet, arms, head and other body parts.
(d) Stemmen, (pl) Zapierac
sie w kominie
Chipped hold
A hold
created with a hammer and chisel by a moron incapable of doing the climb as it
is.
(d) Geschlagener Griff, (f) Prise taillée, (i) Presa scavata, (s) Chippade
grepp, (pl) Chwyt 'rzezbiony' dlutem
Chock
Generic
reference to the family of passive wired protection devices, also called nuts,
stoppers, wires, and rocks.
(f) coinceurs, (e) Nueces
Chockstone
A stone
wedged between a crack, a chimney, etc.
(f) Bloc coincé, (s) Kilsten,
(pl) Kamien yaklinowany w rysie
In
Australia, this means poor rock (you can take all the holds home...). In the
UK, choss is dirt and vegetation found in cracks (or Munge in the US).
Chute
A very
steep gully. The word chute is French for fall and refers to the
rockfall that is very common in a chute.
(pl) Zleb
A deep
and steep-walled basin on a mountain usually forming the blunt end of a valley.
From the French word for circus. Also known as corrie.
A number
designating the overall technical level of a route. The first number in the YDS
designates the class of the climb. Here's the different classes...
(e) Clase
Clean
Climbing
without falling or dogging.
(f) Enchaicirc;ner (une voie), (e) Escalada limpia
Clean
Aid
climbing without hammering.
(e) Limpiar
Clean, to
To
remove the pro from a route. Usually done by the follower.
(d) Abbauen / Ausraümen, (pl) Sciagnac asekuracje
Cliff
A vertical
piece of rock good for climbing (see also Crag).
(d) Fels, (f) Falaise, (nl)
Rots, (i) Falesia, (e) Risco, (s) Klippa, (pl) Skala
Cliffhanger
Not
just a silly film with Wolfgang Güllich and Ron Kauk, but also the name for a
small hooking device used to aid climb up small ledges and pockets.
Climb, to
(d) Klettern,
(f) Grimper, (nl) Klimmen, (i) Arrampicare/scalare, (e) Escalar, (s) Klättra,
(pl) Wspinac sie
Climb, a
(d)
Kletterei, (f) Escalade, (nl) Klim, (i) Arrampicata , (e) Escalada, (s) Led/Tur
"Climbing"
What
the climber shouts after the belayer screams "Belay on".
(d) "Komme", (f) "Départ", (nl) "Ik kom", (i)
"parto"/"vengo", (e) "Voy", (s) "Jag
klättrar", (pl) "Ide"
The
second best thing to real rock (Aka "wall" in the UK).
(d) Kletterhalle, (f) Mur d'escalade / Salle d'escalade, (nl) Klimzaal/Klimhal,
(i) Palestra, (e) Muro artificial de escalada, (s) Inomhusvägg
Climbing shoes
Shoes made
of sticky rubber that would have fit you comfortably when you were ten.
(d) Kletterschuhe, (f) Chaussons d'escalade, (nl) Klimschoenen, (i) Scarpe da
roccia / scarpette / pedule, (e) Pies de gato / tenis de escalada,
(e-argentina) pedulas / zapatillas de escalada, (s) Klätterskor, (pl) Pantofle
/ buty wspinaczkowe
The
British word for a climbing gym.
"Climb when ready"
The
British equivalent of "Belay on".
(f) “Quand tu veux”, (e) "Cuando estés listo", (e-argentina)
"veni", (pl) "Mozesz isc"
Clip, to
The
reassuring action of putting the rope through a karabiner (that is attached to
a piece of pro).
(d) Einhängen, (f) Mousquetonner, (pl) wpiac sie
Clove hitch
A
useful, easily adjustable climbing knot usually used to tie the rope into a
karibiner.
(d) Mastwurf, (f) Noeud de cabestan, (i) Nodo barcaiolo, (e) Cola de cochino,
(s) Dubbelt halvslag, (pl) Wyblinka
Col
A
steep, high mountain pass.
(f) Col, (pl) Siodlo
Coombe
Welsh
word for corrie or cirque. Also spelled cwm.
Cord
Thin
static rope (5, 5.5 or 6 mm)
(d) Reepschnur, (f) Cordelette, (nl) Prusiktouw, (i) Cordino, (e) Cordino /
cordeleta, (s) Repsnöre, (pl) Repsznur
Inside
corner (see dihedral) or
outside corner. In the UK, a corner is always an inside one.
(f) Dièdre, (i) Diedro, (e) Esquina, (s) Hörn, (pl) Zaciecie
Corn snow
Unconsolidated
granular snow that has gone through a short freeze-and-thaw process. This type
of snow is prevalent throughout the High Sierra in April and May.
(f) neige de printemps, (pl)
snieg kukurydziany
Other
word for cirque. Spelled coire in Scotland and coombe or
cwm in Wales.
A steep
gully which may have snow or ice.
(f) Couloir, (pl) Kuluar
Short
for Karabiner.
Crack, in rock
A gap
or fissure in the rock varying in width from nail to bodywidth.
(d) Riß, (f) Fissure, (nl) (Rots)-spleet, (i) Fessura, (e) Grieta, (s) Spricka,
(pl) Rysa
Crag
Name
for a (small) climbing area.
(d) Klettergarten, (f) Falaise, (i) Falesia, (s) Klippa, (pl) Skala
Crampons
Very
pointy footware use to walk glaciers or climb ice.
(d) Steigeisen, (f) Crampons, (nl) Stijgijzers, (i) Ramponi, (e) Crampones, (s)
Stegjärn, (pl) Raki
Crank, to
To pull
on a hold as hard as you can, and then some.
(d) Durchziehen, (pl) Wspinac sie w rysach
Crater, to
To fall
and hit the ground, as in "I almost cratered".
(f) Se gaufrer/se vautrer/se
planter/dévisser, se viander, (s) Kratra, (pl) glebowac
Crest
The
very top of a ridge or arete.
(pl) Ostrze grzbietu
Crevasse
A crack
in the surface of a glacier.
(d) (Gletscher-)spalte, (f) Crevasse, (nl) (Gletscher-)spleet, (i) Crepaccio,
(e) Grieta, (s) Glaciärspricka, (pl) szczelina lodowcowa
Crimper
A very
small hold that accepts only the finger tips. In the UK, this is just called a
crimp.
(d) Kratzer / Pinchi, (f)
Gratton, (i) Tacca, (e) Grieta de dedos
Crux
The
hard bit.
(d) Crux/Schlueßelstelle, (f) Le pas/Crux/passage clé, (nl)
Sleutelpassage, (i) Passo chiave, (e) Paso clave, (s) Krux, (pl) Najtrudniejszy
przechwyt, wyciag na drodze
Cwm
The
Welsh spelling for coombe or cirque.
Daisy chain
A sling
sewn (or tied) with numerous loops, used as an adjustable sling in aid
climbing.
Deadpoint
A
dynamic move where the next hold is grabbed at the very top of the motion (if
you lunge upwards, that is just before you start falling again). By grabbing a
hold in its 'deadpoint', you place the smallest possible loads on the holds.
(d) Greifen im toten Punkt, (f) Jeté, (pl) Wspinanie dynamiczne
The
eerie sensation of jittery legs. Aka to Elvis or the sewing machine.
Deck
The usually
unfriendly surface that welcomes you at the end of a grounder.
Demigod
Highest
form of life in the climbing cosmos. Does not need rock to ascend to great
heights.
Descender
Device
used for rappelling.
(d) Abseiler, (f) descendeur, (i) discensore, (e) descensor, (s) firningsbroms,
(pl) przyjazd zjazdowy
The US
term for an inside corner (Aka
"open book").
(d)Verschneidung, (f) Dièdre, (nl) Versnijding/hoek, (i) Diedro, (e)
Diedro, (s) (Inner-) hörn / Dieder
"Dirt me"
US
slang which means as much as 'Lower me'.
(d) "Ablassen" / "Nach"
Dog (to dog a move)
Climbing,
lowering, climbing again till a certain move is made (the usual mode of
ascent...).
(d) Ausbouldern, (nl) Jo-jo
Double fisherman's knot
Solid knot
used to tie two ropes or pieces of webbing together (Aka grapevine knot).
(d) Doppelter Spierenstich,
(f) Double noeud de pêcheur, (nl) Dubbele visserssteek, (i) Nodo a contrasto
doppio/nodo doppio inglese, (e) Nudo de pescador doble, (s) Dubbel fiskarknop
Double rope
Same as
a half rope. Also the technique using two half ropes.
(d) Doppelseil, (f) Corde à
double, (i) Corda doppia, (e) Cuerda doble, (s) Dubbelrep
Downclimbing
Descending
the difficult way.
(d) Abklettern, (f)
Désescalader, (nl) Afklimmen, (i) disarrampicare / Arrampicare in discesa, (e)
Destrepar / Desescalar, (s) Nedetklättring
Dry tool, to
To
ascend a section of rock using ice tools - very common in mixed climbing.
Dude
Generic
name for a climber (in the US).
Dynamic belay
A belay
method in which some rope is allowed to slip during severe falls. A dynamic
belay can severely reduce the impact force from a serious fall, but can also
severely kill you if not done properly.
(d) Dynamische Sicherung, (f) Assurage dynamique, (i) Sicura dinamica /
assicurazione dinamica, (e) Seguro dinámico, (s) Dynamisk säkring, (pl)
asekuracja dynamiczna
Dyno
Dynamic
movement towards a distant hold.
(d) Dynamo, (f) Jeté, (nl)
Dynamo, (i) Lancio, (e) Movimiento dinámico, (s) Dynamisk move
EB
A legendary
brand of sport climbing shoes - started the free climbing revolution.
Edge
A sharp
edge on a rock face.
(d) Kante, (f) Graton, (i)
Spigolo / lama, (e) Orilla, (s) Kant, (pl) Kant
Edging
Foot
technique where one uses the edge of the climbing shoe to stand on small
footholds. The opposite of smearing.
(d) Kanten, (f) Gratonner, (e) cantear
To have
a sewing maching leg. Named after "Elvis, the King", who suffered from this
this problem when singing before a crowd of screaming women.
(d) Nähmaschine, (e)
motoneta, (pl) telegrafowac
Epic
The
story of a well planned climb that turned into a grueling adventure that turned
out well in the end. As these stories are told over and over again - and they
always are - the details get stretched to supernatural proportions for dramatic
effect.
(d) Eine Geschichte, (f) Epopée (e) Historia épica
Etrier
(Pronounce
with a french accent). Webbing ladder used for aid climbing. Also known as
'aider'.
(d) Leiter, (f) Étrier, (nl)
Ladder, (i) Staffa, (e) Estribo, (s) Stegar
Face climbing
Not
crack climbing.
(d) Wandklettern / Plattenklettern, (nl) Wandklimmen, (f) Grimper en dalle, (i)
Arrampicata su parete/Arrampicata in placca, (e) Escalada exterior, (s)
Väggklättring, (pl) wspinaczka po plycie
Fall, to
A
dynamic retreat from a climb (free-solo rappel). Note that it is never the fall
that kills, it's the landing.
(d) Stuerzen, (f) Prendre un
plomb / Voler / Tomber, (nl) Vallen, (i) Cadere / Volare, (e) Caer / volar, (s)
Ramla, Falla, (pl) odpasc
"Falling"
Yelled
when a climber is (about to) fall.
(d) "ich stürze",
(f) "bloque" (eqv. to 'tension'), (nl) "ik val", (i) "volo", (e) "caigo",
(pl) “lece”
Fall factor
The
length of the fall divided by the amount of rope paid out.
(d) Sturzfaktor, (f) Facteur
de chute, (i) Fattore di caduta, (e) Factor de caída, (s) Fallfaktor
FecoFile
Feet
Footholds.
Fifi hook
An open
hook used to allow easy clipping during aid climbing. Usually found on aiders,
daisy chains, etc.
(d) Fifihaken, (f) Fifi, (i) Gancio fiffi, (e) Fifí, (s) Fiffikrok
Figure 8
Metal
rappelling/belaying device shaped like an 8.
(d) Achter/Abseilachter, (f) Descendeur en huit (Huit), (nl) Acht, (i) L'otto
(il discensore), (e) Ocho, (s) Åtta, (pl) Osemka
Figure of eight
Very
popular and solid tie-in knot.
(d) Achtknoten, (f) Noeud en huit (Huit), (nl) Acht/achtknoop, (i) Nodo a otto
/ Savoia inseguito, (e) Nudo de ocho, (s) Åttaknut, (pl) Osemka
Fingerlock
Masochistic
technique to twist and wedge the fingers into a crack.
(d) Fingerklemmtechnik in Rissen, (f) Verrou (de doigt), (nl)
Vingerverklemming, (i) Incastro di dita, (e) Encuñadura de dedos, (s) Fingerjam
Firn
Old,
well consolidated snow. Often a left-over from the previous season. Closer to ice
than snow in density, it may require the use of crampons.
Simple
knot to tie two ropes together. The double fisherman knot, however, is more
popular.
(d) Spierenstich, (f) Noeud
de pêcheur, (nl) Visserssteek, (i) Nodo a contrasto semplice, (e) Pescador, (s)
Fiskarknop
Bolts,
rings, pitons, stuck nuts and cams and other piece of unremovable pro that may
be found on a climb. Use at your own risk.
Flail, to
To become very unsure and sketchy. When the flailing goes into frantic grabbing for holds, a fall is not far away.
Flake
A thin bit of rock that is detached from the
main face.
(d) Schuppe, (f) Écaille, (i) Scaglia, (e) Laja, (s) flak, (pl) Pletwa
Flapper
A piece of skin torn off your hand that creates
a bloody wound. Usually happend when holding on too hard when gravity is
winning.
Flared
A crack
or chimney with sides that are not parallel, but instead form two converging
planes of rock.
Flash, to
To lead
a climb with no falls or dogging and with no previous attempts on the climb.
Two variations exist: the onsight flash (where the climber has never seen the
climb before) and the beta flash (where the climber has studied the climb
before or has seen someone do the climb). See there.
(f) Enchaîner en tête
Following
Not leading
a climb.
(d) Nachsteigen, (f) Grimper en second / Grimper en moulinette, (nl) Naklimmen,
(i) Seguire (andare da secondo), (e) Segundear / escalar de segundo, (s) Följa,
(pl) Chodzic na drugiego
Free climbing
Moving up
a rock using only hands, feet, and natural holds. Ropes and pro are only used
for protection of the climber and not for progression.
(d) frei klettern, (f) escalade libre, (nl) vrijklimmen, (i) scalata /
arrampicata libera, (e) escalada libre, (s) friklättring, (pl) wspinaczka
klasyczna
Free
climbing while using no ropes for protection. You fall - you die.
(d)Free solo klettern, (f)
Solo intégral, (nl) Solo, (i) Arrampicata in solitaria, (e) Escalada solitaria
/ Superlibre, (s) Frisolo
Friend
Trade
name for the original camming devices, now also available as Camalots, TCU's,
Quads, Aliens, Big Dudes, etc.
Gas
The
stuff your car and muscles run on. If you run out of gas....
Gate
The
part of the karabiner that opens.
(d) Schnapper, (f) doigt,
(nl) snapper, (i) leva, (e) pestillo, (e-argentina) leva, (s) grind, (pl) zamek
karabinka
Gerry rail
A hold
large enough for the most senior climbers.
Glacier
A
slowly moving permanent mass of ice.
(d) Gletscher, (f) glacier, (nl) gletscher, (i) ghiacciaio, (e) glaciar, (s)
glaciär, (pl) lodowiec
Gnarly
Difficult,
sharp, hard. Usually in reference to a hold or move.
God-save-me
The
type of hold one lunges for hoping it will be the perfect bucket.
Goomba
Novice
climber who thinks he knows it all. Unlike boneheads,
goombas don’t know enough to get hurt.
"Got me?"
A wake
up call for the belayer, used to warn her that you are about to put some weight
on the rope.
(pl)
“Trzymasz?” / “Blokuj”
Grade
A
number denoting the seriousness of a route (not to be confused with the rating
of climb, which describes the technical difficulty). In Britain, however, the
word grade means both grade and rating. Look here for the different
grades...
(d) Ernsthaftigkeitsgrat, (f) engagement, (e) grado, (pl) wycena
Grapevine knot
Gravical
The
adrenaline high felt with a lot of air between you and ground level. 'This is
gravical, dude'.
Grease, to
Not being
able to hold on to a particularly slick hold, due to the presence of sweat,
lactic acid or sand. Not uncommon in overused crags
Climbing
English for awesome or cool.
Grounder
A fall
where the kinetic energy is not absorbed by the rope and pro, but rather by
mother earth itself. Can hurt badly.
(d) Bodensturz, (f) chute au sol
Grigri
Nifty
but somewhat controversial belaying device made by Petzl.
Gripped
Paralyzed
with fear and utterly confused.
Gully
A wide,
shallow ravine on a mountainside.
Gumbie
Also
spelled Gumby. An inexperienced or new rock climber.
HACE
High
Altitude Cerebral Edema. Liquid in the brain as a result of high altitude
exposure. Few people live to tell what it is like.
(f) oedème du cerveau
Half rope
A rope of
9 or 8.5 mm that has to be used together with a second rope when leading a
climb.
(d) Halbseil, (f) corde de
rappel, (nl) half touw, (i) mezza corda, (e) media cuerda, (s) halvrep, (pl)
lina polowka
Handjam
Slightly
masochistic technique where the hand is wedged into a crack.
(d) Handklemmer, (f) verrou
(de main), (nl) handklem, (i) incastro di mani, (e) encuñadura de mano / -de
palmas, (e-argentina) empotrar la mano
Handle
Big
banana-shaped hold often found in indoor gyms. Great for waving hello to admiring
bystanders. It may sound bizarre, but I've never seen one of those outdoors...
(d) Henkel, (f) poignée /
baquet / poignée de métro (parisians only) (nl) handvat, (pl) klama
Hangdog, to
See
Dog.
HAPE
High Altitude
Pulmonary Edema. Liquid in the lungs as a result of high altitude exposure.
Pretty serious condition that can quickly lead to HACE if a descent to lower
altitudes is not made immediately. See also HACE.
(f) oedème du poumon
A climber
with seemingly superhero strength who has survived epics of grandiose
proportions.
Harness
Piece
of clothing that identifies you as a climber. The coolness factor can be
significantly enhanced by hanging things from the harness that go cling.
(d) Klettergurt, (f) baudrier/baudard, (f-c) baudrier/cuissard, (nl)
klimgordel, (i) imbragatura, (e) arnés, (s) klättersele, (pl) uprzaz
Haul bag
Large
and robust bag used to haul food, water, climbing gear, sleeping bag,
television, satelite dish, and other essential equipment that is required, up a
big wall. Also know as "the pig".
(d) Materialsack /
Nachziehsack, (f) sac, (i) sacco da recupero, (e) petate / costal de escalada,
(s) hissack
Headwall
Where
the face of a mountain steepens dramatically.
"Help"
The
vocal alternative to 6 signals a minute. In far away countries, try S.O.S. -- it doesn't mean
anything but is
understood by most.
(d) "Hilfe", (f) "Au secours", (nl) "Help", (i)
"Aiuto", (e) socorro/ayuda, (s) "Hjälp"
Helmet
Solid
plastic device that can sometimes protect the head from falling stones or
impact (Aka a brainbucket).
(d) Helm, (f) casque, (nl) helm, (i) casco, (e) casco, (s) hjälm, (pl) kask,
(sl) prilba
Herbish
The
opposite of grodle. Not
all that awesome.
Hex
Short
for Hexentrix. A type of nut with an excentric hexadiagonal shape. Works for
wedging (as a nut) but also for camming.
Hueco
A
beautifully shaped pocket with a positive lip named after these incredible
features found at the Hueco Tanks bouldering area in Texas.
HMS
Karibiner
with one wide side used for belaying with a munter hitch (aka pearabiner). From
the German term for munter hitch belay: 'Halbmastwurfsicherung'.
(d) HMS, (i) moschettone a
pera, (s) HMS-knut, (pl) HMS (karabinek gruszkowaty)
Hold
Anything
that can be held on to.
(d) Griff, (f) Prise, (nl)
Greep, (i) Appiglio / Presa, (e) Presa / agarre, (e-argentina) Toma, (s) Grepp,
(pl) Chwyt
Horn
Spike of
rock that can be for a great hold or not so great protection. The same as a
chickenhead.
Hurtin unit
That
member of the climbing team that is suffering from severe exposure to alcoholic
beverages the night before.
Ice axe
Device
used for ice climbing, glacier crossing, or scaring away burglars.
(d) Eispickel / Eisbeil, (f) Piolet, (nl) IJsbijl, (i) Piccozza, (e) Piolet,
(s) Isyxa, (pl) Czekan
A
protection device for ice climbing. Looks like a large bolt that can be screwed
in hard ice.
(d) Eisschraube, (f) Broche à glace, (i) Vite da ghiaccio, (e) Tornillo para
hielo, (s) Isskruv, (pl) sruba lodowa
Italian hitch
Munter
hitch knot or HMS knot
(pl) Polwyblinka
J
Jam, to
Wedging
body parts in a crack.
(d) Klemmen, (f) Faire un
verrou / Faire un coincement / Coincer, (i) Incastrarsi, (e) Encuñar,
(e-argentina) Empotrar, (s) Jamma, (pl) Klinowac
Jingus
Gnarly,
sharp, hard, or radical. Often used as an expletive.
Jug
Very
large hold (short for jug handle) (Aka "bucket" in the US).
(d) Henkel / Kelle, (f) Poignée, (nl) bak, (i) Vasca / Fibbia, (e-argentina)
Manija, (s) Brevlåda, (pl) Klama
Jugs
Big
wall lingo for Jumars or any other type of ascenders.
Jug, to
To
jumar up a line (big wall lingo).
(f) monter au
jumar
Jumar
A type of
rope ascending device.
Jumar, to
To
ascend a rope using ascenders.
(d) Jumaren, (f) Monter au jumar, (e) Jumarear, (s) Jumarera
Metal
connecting device, sometimes spelled with a 'c' in the US. This most essential climbing
device is also known as a "biner" in the US and as "crab"
or "krab" (mostly) in the UK.
(d) Karabiner, (f) mousqueton, (nl) karabiner / mousqueton, (i) moschettone,
(e) mosquetón / mosquete, (s) karbin / karbinhake, (pl) karabinek
Kernmantle rope
Modern
climbing rope consisting of bundles of continuous nylon filaments (Kern)
surrounded by a braided protective sheath (Mantle).
(d) Kernmantelseil
kN
Kilonewton. An abbreviation usually found on karabiners and other climbing gear. For
those of you who are not engineers, one kilonewton is about 100 kg or about 220
lbs. (And for those of you who are, don't bother lecturing me).
Knotted cord
Piece
of cord with a knot tied into the end that is used for protection (pretty much
like a nut). The traditional method of protecting climbs, and still used in the
Elbsandsteingebirge in Eastern Germany.
(d) Knotenschlinge, (f) Corde
nouée, (i) Cordino annodato
Krab
Short
for Karabiner.
L
Largo start
A climb
or bouldering problem where the first move starts with a jump for high holds.
Named after John Long (or 'Largo').
Layback/Lieback
Somewhat
clumsy looking climbing technique where hands and feet work in opposition.
(d) Piazen/hangeln, (f) Dülfer / opposition, (i) Dulfer (Opposizione), (e)
Dülfer, (s) Layback
Leader
Person
who leads a climb.
(d) Vorsteiger, (f) Premier (de cordée), (nl) Voorklimmer, (i) Primo, (e)
Primero / puntero, (s) Försteman, (pl) Prowadzacy
Lead, to
To
ascend a climb from the bottom up, placing protection (or clipping protection)
as you go.
(d) Vorsteigen, (f) Grimper
en tête, (nl) Voorklimmen, (i) Andare da capocardata, andare da primo, (e)
Puntear / guiar, (s) Leda, (pl) Prowadzic
Ledge
Flat
bit on a rock (can be miniature or gigantic).
(d) Leiste (small) / Absatz (large) / Band (large laterally extended ledge),
(f) Réglette/vire ("vire" is somewhere between a microledge and a
party ledge), (nl) Rand(je), (i) Cengia, (e) Repisa, (s) Hylla, (pl) Polka
Limestone
Type of
rock found in abundance in southern France (usually white and full of pockets
and holds).
(d) Kalkstein, (f) calcaire, (nl) kalksteen, (i) calcare, (e) roca calcárea,
(s) kalksten, (pl) wapien
Karabiner
that can be locked (in the UK, a screwgate or twistlock).
(d) Verschlusskarabiner / Schrauber, (f) Mousqueton à vis, (nl)
Schroefkarabiner, (i) Moschettone a ghiera, (e) Mosquetón de seguro, (s)
Låskarbin / Skruvkarbin
Lock-off
To hold
on to the rock with one bent arm while using the other arm to reach up for the
next hold or to place or clip protection. Lockoffs on small holds will get you
pumped in a hurry.
(d) Blockieren / Fixieren, (f) Bloquer, (nl) Blokkeren, (i) Bloccaggio, (e)
Bloquear, (s) Lesa / Binda av
Lowering
To
descend something or somebody.
(d) Ablassen, (f) Descendre en moullinette / mouliner, (nl) Zakken/naar beneden
laten, (i) Calare, (e) Bajar / descender a alguien, (s) Fira ner
M
Manky
Term
used to describe a fixed bolt that looks like it was placed before the last ice
age. Use these bolts at your own discretion
(d) Rosthaken, (f) Clou pourri/clou rouillé
Mantle
Difficult
balancing move useful to get up on ledges.
(d) (Durch)-stützbewegung, (f) Rétablissement, (i) Ristabilimento, (s)
Mantla
Climbing
with a combination of different methods of ascent. e.g mixed free and aid
climbing, mixed rock and ice climbing, etc.
(f) escalade mixte, (pl)
wspinaczka mieszana
Moat
The gap
between snow and ice on a rock wall. Has posed problems ever since the middle
ages.
Mountain rescue
The
people who put their life on the line when you screw up badly.
(d) Bergrettung, (f) Secours
en montagne, (i) Soccorso alpino, (e) Rescate de montaña, (s) Bergräddning
The
dirt and vegetation that can sometimes be found in cracks. In the UK: Choss.
Multi pitch climb
Climb
that consists of more than a single pitch.
(d) Mehrseillaengentour, (f) voie de plusieurs longueurs, (nl) klim van meerdere
touwlengtes, (i) via da piu' tiri, (e) ruta de varios largos, (s) tur med flera
replängder(?), (pl) droga kilku wyciagowa / wspinaczka wielowyciagowa
Munter hitch
Knot
used for belaying (Aka italian hitch or friction hitch). The Germans love this knot
(see HMS).
(d) Halbmastwurf, (f)
Demi-cabestan, (nl) Halve mastworp, (i) Mezzo barcaiolo, (e-argentina) Nudo
dinamico, (s) Munterknut
N
Nailing
An
ancient term used to describe direct-aid climbing with pitons.
Needle
Rock
with a characteristic pointed shape. Also known as pinnacle, aiguille,
gendarme, etc.
(d) Nadel / Spitze, (f) Aiguille / Gendarme, (i) Guglia / Pinnacolo, (e) Aguja,
(s) Pinnakel, (pl) Igla
Névé
Consolidated
granular snow formed by repeated freeze-and-thaw cycles. Also used to indicate
permanent snowfields.
(f) Névé
Notch
A small
col.
(d) Scharte, (f) Brèche
Nut
Metal
wedge used for protection in cracks.
(d) Klemmkeil, (f) Coinceur, (nl) Nut , (i) Dado, (e) Nuez, (s) Kil, (pl) Kosc
The
piece of metal that Americans call a nut tool.
Piece
of metal that can be used to remove stuck nuts or cams. In the UK: nut key.
(d) Keilenentferner, (f)
Décoinceur/sardine, (i) Cavadadi, (e) Sacanueces, (s) Kilpetare
O
"Off Belay"
Yelled
when the climber no longer requires a belay (e.g. because she/he has reached a
stance). Once the belayer hears "off belay", he/she removes the rope
from the belay device and yells "belay off". In UK, Australia and New
Zealand: "Safe".
(d) "Stand" ("Aussicher"), (f) "Relais, vaché!",
(nl) "Stand", (i) "Posto" / "Molla", (e)
"Libre", (e-argentina) "autoasegurado", (s) "Lägg
av", (pl) "Mam auto"
Off width
A climb
too wide to jam, too small to chimney. And then I've heard of people who
actually like this kind of climbing.
(d) Schulterriß, (f) Offwidth, (e) Off width, (pl) Rysa szersza niz piesc
"On Belay ???"
Query
to verify if the belayer is ready to secure the climber (US only).
(d) "Kann ich kommen?", (f) "Tu me prends ???", (i)
"Sei pronto ???", (e) "?Subo?" / "?estás listo?",
(s) "Sakring klar ???", (pl) "Moge isc?"
On-sight flash
Leading
a climb with no falls and no dogging and without any prior attempts, watching
someone do it or beta on how to do the moves.
(f) Enchaîner en tête à vue,
(i) A vista, (e) A vista
Open book
Same as
a dihedral or inside corner. Two panes of rock join in an acute or obtuse
corner that faces left or right.
Outside corner
Also
known as pillar or arete.
(d) Kante, (f) Pilier, (nl) Pijler, (i) Pilastro
Over-cam, to
Compressing
a cam to its absolute minimum size during placement, effectively eliminating
the possibility of extraction.
Overhand knot